In the debate organized by Eat The Vanguard a few days before the presentation, on Wednesday, of the Michelin guide, Jordi Cruz and Dani Garcia They talked about the stars and whether or not chefs can become brands. From the talk between the two it was clear that while the Malaga, who has just closed his restaurant in Marbella (the only new three stars of 2019) had decided to leave the haute cuisine to bet on a more affordable proposal and take it to everyone, J
Ordi Cruz has not lost his passion for competing in haute cuisine
Nor the appetite of new stars.
It was noticed for days that the popular chef expected the first star in the newest of its restaurants, Timeless, in the old fortress of Sant Julia de Ramis (Girona). But the second of Angle, the first restaurant of its own, which after its experience in L’Estany Clar (Berga) opened at the Mon Sant Benet in 2008, to transfer it in 2013 to the Barcelona hotel Cram, by Josep Maria Rodriguez, also owner of the Hotel Restaurant Abac, which was much closer.
Michelin's wand has touched this restaurant that has never made too much noise and that has been advancing in the shadow of the triestrellado of the same chef. Cruz has had four years Alberto Dura as head chef, with years of experience at his side in Abac and to whom he wanted to give all the prominence on the stage of the Michelin gala on Wednesday. Cruz made it clear that the recognition of Angle is the prize to a team led by its director from the beginning, Karen Scribe, which does not count, much less, with so many resources like Abac which states that "they are not my right hand, but my heart and my brain."
On Monday at the reception, where after a recent rehabilitation they have arranged a space to receive diners and offering them the first entrees, it sported a premature Christmas decoration that did not invite waiting for other events before the holidays. An air of mojito, an assortment of seafood on a seaweed and a smoked log with mushroom consomme before going to the table.
On the menu, a couple of classics They share with Abac (the gilda of frozen olives and the corn taco with foie gras and mole). Dura makes a reinterpretation of the spit that serves steaming before the diner, following the trend that Dani Garcia started in his day (Alas! What would the people of Malaga say to the little fish on cold days and inserted horizontally instead of vertically?); a delicious parmesan raviolone with egg, truffle and artichokes. The seal of Cruz appears in the passion for infusions and the staging in the room. In dishes such as fabada, in this case infused for twenty minutes at the table, while the menu advances. Is a successful reinterpretation, with beans of the ganxet and companion made from different parts of the lamb. Tasty rice with veal and oyster capipota, pure collagen, and the tuna cannelloni with puree of tupinambos, yuzu and codium, with which another house chef, Claudio Santos, recently competed in a contest. Also version of the Wellington steak, with an old cow tartare on puff pastry, which does not improve the original before ending the frozen coconut with pineapple sorbet and raspberry meringue with beets and yogurt.
Angle joins the club of Barcelona bevelled (La Enoteca, Moments, Torres Brothers Kitchen and Enjoy) in a city with an excellent gastronomic level and restaurants that also deserve it (Alkimia, Enigma, Dos Palillos …). Now it's time to keep raising the bar and polish many details. Alberto Dura is willing to continue giving everything and happy to have the complicity of Cruz, who admires the self-confidence he aspires to have.
Direction: Carrer d’Arago, 214, 08011 Barcelona